ABOUT ISTANBUL
With a population of just over 15 million people, Istanbul is Europe’s largest city. Located on both sides of the Bosphorus, what makes Istanbul geographically interesting is that it’s one of a handful of cities that straddles two continents. The western half of the city is situated in Europe while the eastern half is located in Asia. The Asian side is largely residential so you’ll find most of the city’s major attractions clustered within two districts on the European side – Sultanahmet and Beyoğlu. First-time visitors to the city will be spending much of their time in those two districts.
BEFORE YOU GO
You do need a visa to enter Turkey, but unlike some other countries it is very easy to obtain. You have two options: apply online for an e-visa beforehand (recommended) or apply at the visa counter upon arrival in Turkey. When in Istanbul or anywhere in Turkey you must use their currency, the Lira (₺). No other currency will be accepted outside the airport. So either preorder money through your bank before your trip or plan to use an airport ATM upon arrival in Istanbul. Bring a printout or have a screenshot of your hotel’s information with full address and phone number, you may need this to help your taxi driver know where you’re going.
WHEN TO GO
March to May or September to November are the best times to visit Istanbul. The crowds are thinner and the weather is relatively mild, though Autumn sees more rain than Spring. December to February is low season for tourism, but it is the wettest and coldest time so you would need to plan accordingly. I would recommend not going in July/August, during that time is it extremely humid and overwhelmingly overcrowded.
HOW TO GET THERE
Istanbul recently opened its new airport, IST, which is the biggest airport in the world. Being as it is brand new the airport is extremely nice and technologically advanced. However, it is much farther from the city than the old airport and will take you about 50 minutes to reach the city center. All international flights to Istanbul will go through the new airport. To get to the city center from the airport you can take a public bus service, but I would recommend just grabbing a taxi once you exit the airport. A taxi will run you about 35€ (235₺) or you could arrange for a private transfer for around 55€ (365₺). The same goes for the return back to the airport. Istanbul does not have Uber/Lyft. Make sure you have Lira (₺) already with you or use an airport ATM to withdraw some before you take your transportation. You cannot use any other currency anywhere in Istanbul.
GETTING AROUND
Depending on where you stay Istanbul is a very walkable city and actually I suggest walking as there is a lot to see/take in as you walk through the city streets. For longer distances taxis are very accessible and relatively inexpensive. Throughout the city you will see designated areas where you can grab a taxi. If you’re leaving from your hotel have them call you a taxi or if you’re out and about you can always pop into a restaurant/hotel and ask them to call you a taxi if you don’t see a taxi stand. There is also ample public transportation, ask your hotel for map of the buses and trams.
WHERE TO STAY
There are two main areas to stay in Istanbul: Sultanahment and Beyoglu. Both are located on the European side, but they are opposite sides of the Golden Horn inlet which connects to the Bosphorus strait. Most the major tourist sites are located in Sultanahment while Beyoglu is more contemporary with trendy bars and restaurants. From one area to the other is just a funicular and tram ride away. Or if you have the time/ability I recommend walking, it is a bit of a trek but there are a lot of things to see on the way.
Ciragan Palace Kempinski: A five-star luxury hotel located on the European shores of the Bosphorus, in a very convenient location between the districts of Besiktas and Ortakoy. One hour from the IST airport, it is the only Ottoman Imperial Palace and Hotel on the Bosphorus. This hotel is not as central as some others, but is by far the most luxurious and offers a resort ambience in the city. With 310 rooms, 3 restaurants, 2 bars, full spa, and for wintertime a heated outdoor infinity pool right on the Bosphorus. It’s about a 15-20 minute drive to the Sultanahmet area and about a 10-15 drive to the Beyoglu area.
Soho House Hotel: A five star hotel located in the Beyoglu district. More of a boutique hotel, tastefully decorated in contemporary style. With only 87 rooms, full spa with traditional Hammam, massive full gym, rooftop pool and bar, and two restaurants. You do not need to be a Soho House club member to stay at this hotel and all hotel guests are granted access to Soho House club, located right next to the hotel. In the club you will find another restaurant, multiple bars, and a rooftop terrace. It is just a two minute walk to Istiklal Caddesi, a 30-45 minute walk or a 15 minute drive to the Sultanahmet district, and a 40 minute drive from the airport.
Ajwa Hotel Sultanahmet: A five-star hotel located in the heart of Istanbul’s old city, Sultanahmet. The hotel embraces all aspects of luxury hospitality with a halal approach. With only 61 rooms, full with spa a traditional Hammam and hydrotherapy pool, gym, one restaurant, and a Patisserie. It is a 10-20 minute walk to all major attractions in that district (blue mosque, etc.), a 15 minute drive to Beyoglu, and 50 minutes from the airport.
WHERE TO EAT
Dürümzade: Located just a few minutes off of Istiklal Caddesi and featured on the Istanbul episode of No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain. They specialize in dürüm which is a type of sandwich made by rolling flatbread around döner kebab fillings. Really good and inexpensive too.
Tarihi Sultanahmet Koftecisi Selim Usta: Located right by the Sultanahmet tram stop. It is said to serve some of the best kofte (meatballs) in Istanbul. Order their specialty which is the izgara köfte or grilled beef meatballs.
Ahırkapı Balıkçısı: Located about an 8 minute walk from the blue mosque, it is highly regarded and known for its fresh seafood
Mikla: Located in Beyoglu district on the rooftop of the Marmara Pera hotel. If you’re wanting an upscale dinner then this is the place to go. It was voted one of the Worlds Best 50 Restaurants. Both the menu and the ambiance of the restaurant reflect the Turkish-Scandinavian background of Mehmet Gürs, the Chef-Owner. You have a choice of the seven course tasting menu 525₺ or the three course prix fixe a la carte menu for 385₺.
WHAT TO DO
Visit the main historic sites (Sultanahmet) most of these are next or a short walk from each other. So it is possible to do them all in one day or you can break it up. I visited all these sites/markets on my own. I didn’t spend a ton of time at each place as I was only in Istanbul for three days, so not using a guide worked well for me. If you want a more in-depth experience then I would definitely suggest getting a guide. You can get a guide at each attraction or have one who travels with you to multiple sites. Most of these places have a mandatory entrance fee, so if you plan on going to multiple you may want to buy the Istanbul Museum Pass. Below are things that I think are a must do in Istanbul.
Historic Sites
Hagia Sophia: The most iconic site in Istanbul and once considered the greatest church in Christendom. 60₺
Blue Mosque: One of the most striking mosques in Istanbul. Free
Basilica Cistern: The largest surviving Byzantine cistern in Istanbul. 20₺
Topkapi Palace: The court of the Ottoman Empire from the 15th to the 19th centuries. 60₺
Bazaars
Grand Bazaar: Built in 1461, it has approximately 4,000 shops, covering 60 streets. It’s one of the largest covered shopping markets in the world. You will find quality textiles, carpets, Turkish ceramics, fashion wear, jewelry, souvenirs and more.
Spice Bazaar: is 350 years old and around 100 shops selling fragrant scents and colorful spices, nuts, teas, dried fruits and more.
*These markets can be extremely crowded and stuffy so prepare yourself as it can be quite overwhelming, especially in the summer months
Explore Beyoğlu District
Galata Bridge: Bridge connecting the north and south of European Istanbul.
Galata Tower: Former watchtower offering great views of the city. 25₺
Istiklal Caddesi: The heart of Beyoğlu and Istanbul’s most famous street, known for its fashion shops.
Dolmabahce Palace: The biggest palace in Turkey. 90₺
Other
Turkish Bath (Hammam): What makes Turkish baths unique is that they do not have pools or baths in them. There is a large steam room where you sit while a lady (or man) scrubs your entire body. It is not mixed gender, but be prepared as mostly everyone is entirely naked. You may wear a swimsuit if you’d like. It might sound weird but it is amazing. I recommend Killic Ali Pasa Hamami located in Tophane, Istanbul’s harbor district.
Cruise on the Bosphorus Straight: it takes you up through the Bosphorus Straight which cuts through Istanbul and gives you some of the best views of Istanbul.
IF YOU HAVE TIME
Istanbul Archaeology Museums: Museum of the Ancient Orient, Tiled Pavilion, Archaeological Museum. 30₺
Great Palace Mosaic Museums: Museum featuring an impressive collection of calligraphy and rugs.
Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum (Ibrahim Pasa Palace): Museum featuring an impressive collection of calligraphy and rugs. 35₺
Underground Cistern: is a unique spot to visit. It is an underground water storage constructed using columns from ruined Istanbul buildings. It is quite mystical to walk through & nice place to cool down in when in Istanbul.
Sultanahmet Square: The former location of the Hippodrome of Constantinople.
TIPS
-If you want to do a Turkish bath make sure you have your hotel make you a reservation, the best ones often fill up.
-When using a credit or debt card whether at hotel checkout or a restaurant if they ask if you would like to pay in Lira or USD (or your home currency) always pay in Lira. This way your local bank does the conversion, which will give you the best exchange rate. The same goes for when using an ATM, always proceed without conversion. You should do this in any foreign country.
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